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[玩家讨论] 游麦积山石窟杂忆_精品散文_心情随笔

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发表于 2020-2-8 04:54:14 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
游麦积山石窟杂忆_精品散文_心情随笔
  驱车千里,来到心仪已久的麦积山。和别处的景区一样,游人如织,车水马龙,门票很贵,买票的地方离真正观赏的地方很远(你要是不想走路或者走不动,就得乘坐景区的泊车,这也算是近些年一些景区创收的创新手段了)只是多了几道查验身份的卡子。
  沿着一段不算太陡的石阶拾级而上,就到了壁立千仞的石窟崖下。抬头仰视,只看到一层层现代人修架的扶梯和上面小心翼翼行走的人群,还有一面大佛的大致轮廓,基本看不到石窟,但随着你逐级而上,留给你的不仅有身体上的战栗,更有心灵上的震撼。
  据说麦积山山高142米,因山形似麦垛而得名。石窟多凌空开凿于20到70米高的悬崖峭壁上,开凿石窟时,从下堆积木柴达到七八十米高处,然后施工,造完一层,木材拆除一层,直到山脚。可想而知,要堆积起七八十米高的木垛,得砍掉多少林木,得发动多少民工!难怪当地人至今还流传着“砍完南山柴,修起麦积崖”,“先有万丈柴,后有麦积崖”的民谣。不过在下看来,这一记载也还有值得商榷的地方,理由有二:其一,要堆积起如山高的木垛,那得至少动用十好几万的人力,耗费成年累月的时间,不间断的施工才能做成,在没有中央政府乃至地方政府的组织实施下,断不可能在短时间内完工。史载麦积山石窟从后秦时期开凿,断断续续绵延一千五六百年,至明清时才告完成就是明证;其二,在悬崖峭壁上,开凿有许多孔,有的孔内还能发现当年楔进去的木头,我想那可能是工匠踩脚施工用的。想当年,工匠们可能先在石壁上凿出一个个孔,楔上木桩,然后铺上木板,站在木板上,腰间用绳索系住,绳子系在上面的木桩上以为安全索,然后作业的。
  麦积山现存洞窟194个,泥塑像、石雕像7000多尊,壁画1300多平方米,被誉为东方雕塑艺术陈列馆,和山西大同的云冈石窟、河南龙门石窟、甘肃敦煌莫高窟并称为中国四大石窟。沿着牢固的梯道缓缓走,慢慢看,一个个洞窟、一尊尊佛像、一幅幅壁画、一个个佛本生故事映入眼帘,使你仿佛置身于宗教气氛氤氲的世界,畅游在佛法无边的大海上,包围在古人那无上的艺术苑囿之中,心灵为之净化,精神为之陶冶,境界为之提升,心胸一时开阔。是啊!当你身在五六十米的高空,站在通高15米的佛像脚下,俯下身去看看地面上的人物景像,然后再看看这诺大的佛像,想想当年的创造者们的勇气和智慧、奉献和牺牲,再想想当下身处物欲横流、尔虞我诈、患得患失的世界中的我们,又怎能不感到心灵的震撼呢?又怎会生发“一览众山小”的感慨呢?!
  麦积山所处的地方,乃是古代丝绸之路的必经要道。自西汉张骞凿通西域开始,千百年间,东西方几种文化就在河西走廊交汇融通,并在敦煌、麦积山等处开异花、结硕果、放光彩。遥想几千年前,大汉强盛,疆域广大,丝路畅通。一队队驼铃往来穿梭,不断把中原文化带到这里,又带到更远的西方;把中亚、西亚、南亚甚至两河流域和古罗马的文化带到这里,又带到内地。以后的年月里,虽然不乏动荡战乱,饥荒瘟疫,刀剑盗匪,间或有几次灭佛举动,但文化的交流传续从未间断,捐献凿窟造佛从未间断,供奉施舍养护从未间断,于是就有了世人面前宏大辉煌不朽的艺术宝藏。
  从右爬到顶,又从左下到地,看完了洞窟百间,仿佛看到了人世百态,有所思索有所得。临了离开,再回望身后,游人依然亦步亦趋,佛像依然庄严肃穆,小商小贩依然叫卖连连。
  随机推荐:天鼎江苏 天鼎江苏 股票交易 股票开户 炒股软件
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